Tangiers

On the bus early in the chilly dark to the ferry for Morrocco. Breasting a hill, in the distance,  stark and shimmering white against the grey and threatening sky, rising like a mountain was Gibralter. Close by,  off the coast of Tangiers,  the Battle of Trafalgar was fought in 1812,  resulting in a narrow victory for Britain but the death of her naval hero Nelson.  The strategic importance of the area contolling the narrow straits between Africa and the continent is illustrated by the number of forts and fortresses built by successive regimes which remain evident today.

After a short ferry trip from Tarifa we landed in the port of Tangiers and joined a new coach for a tour of the city.  Buildings rise out of bare plots, storied up the hill sides mixing new with old as well as palatial, gated estates of kings and princes.  Security is high and gun boats patrol the waters whilst police (one hiding behind a bush) guard the hotels currently hosting the King of Saudia Arabia who has come to enjoy the excellent and clean beaches.

We viewed a light house guarding the Atlantic ocean and the Mediterranean sea before descending to the old town for lunch and a belly dancing display - a most agile and flexible young women  performed for us.  Here the remains of a centuries old Portugese fort forms part of the community with crumbling walls and ancient guns still pointing seawards.  Narrow streets lead down to the medina market filled with the fragrance of baking bread and the sounds of artisans creating everything from mosaic furniture to leather goods in dark and cramped spaces.  Hawkers are persistant and insistant.

At the museum in the old town set in the palace of a sultan we saw wonderful mosaics and gained a perception of the household - the ornate and decorative bedroom of the sultan, the rooms for his concubines, a garden for his pleasure, around a central elegantly mosaiced courtyard with a fountain. Once again the intrepid Romans dabbled in this area also.

Locals are very proud of their country and culture - 90% of education is free as is health care, women occupy important roles (15% of seats in parliament held by women) and the King is respected and admired for being progressive.

Tangiers is a blend of ancient and modern, sometimes "down" but never out.  Our day was exhausting, sometimes a bit overwhelming but a memorable experience - everthing I thought it would be.

PS Les liked the camel but Vicky wouldn't let him take it home.